Figure another 5W for the license plate light and 6W for the instrument lights. When you only have Watts to play with, every Watt counts! You could, in theory, rewind your own stator to pump up the volume. The stator on the DR runs in an oil bath, which seemed strange to me — an electrical system that runs in oil? I guess so…. The longer lead that comes from the TDC Top Dead Center pickup, winds back along the left side of the frame before mating up a control unit under the seat.
The stock stator is held on to the cover by three Allen head bolts, but before you remove the old stator, look carefully to see how the wires are located as they come out the back of the stator cover.
We also cleaned up the replacement W stator by carefully grinding and cutting off the bits of epoxy left over from the sloppy fabrication. To reinstall the cover complete with new stator, first carefully install the new gasket the engine has a locating pin to help hold the gasket. Then bolt everything back together the bolts have an 8 mm hex head and take only 4 lb.
Also, we wanted to first check the output with the original equipment stator and then compare it to the W stator. So we put the original Bikemaster battery back in the bike; it was being used to power an electric fence outdoors and the voltage had dropped down to Our reading was Plugging the numbers into the formula [ To be honest, we were surprised that it actually put out more than the original.
Does the increased output make a difference? The Pro Cycle W stator is fairly easy to install and, despite its horrid looks, it apparently works as advertised.
The original BMW alternator puts out about W, so the Omega conversion yields a big upgrade and, more importantly, it allows the battery to get a charge below 2, RPM. Upgrading the Voltage regulator is also a good idea when doing this kind of upgrade. Side effect, my stator wires coming from the stator to the Voltage Regulator get a lot warmer than when running stock, my extra 60 Watts seems to be generating more than the wires can handle without getting warm.
This is something that needs to be watched whenever you re-design the electrical system on the bike. If I had known this I would have ordered a custom wound stator that had leads that were the next gauge larger in wire to keep cooler. About the author Rick K. Sign Up Today Get all the best motorcycle news, reviews and deals delivered to your inbox weekly.
Does it make a difference? Add in the 35W or so to run the ignition and that puts us around Watts.The cost of a new stator can be hundreds of dollars. Without a good stator, your engine will run poorly or not at all. This solution completely bypasses the stator by using a 12 volt battery to power the ignition system.
It will work on all contact breaker point engines old styleand some electronic controlled ignition newer style ones. The guide is for contact breaker systems.
Note that as written this system will bypass the CDI portion of your ignition system if present and replace it with a more traditional one. I devised this system when the stator on my Honda XR got so weak that it couldn't power the spark plug, preventing the engine from running. While a stator is dying, it can produce a weak spark, causing the engine to miss or run poorly. Symptoms are often worsened as the engine warms up. Did you use this instructable in your classroom?
Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. Ignition coil: This needs to be a fairly heavy duty coil.
They both literally blew up from the heat. I guess they're not designed for a continuous 12 volts? I found that the older canister type ignition coil designed for cars work for this application and don't get hot or blow up.
This is the lead acid type used for car batteries. They sell small ones for use in dirt bike starters, security system back up power supplies, etc. Capacitor: Any capacitor intended for ignition systems will work. I don't know the technical specification. I used the one that was one that was part of the original ignition system on my dirt bike.This plug-n-play kit includes sealed LED headlight assembly and adjustable mounting brackets specifically designed for the Yamaha XT The new design for the black headlight produces more light and has much more uniform beam pattern when compared to the previous version.
New design currently only available in black, chrome may be available in the near future. No wiring, soldering, resistors, trimming, drilling, or fabrication required. Kit includes all the necessary stainless clamps and bolts. With the roundness and strength of the tubing supports, it makes a great grab handle when you need to lift the rear of the motorcycle. For riders looking for advanced performance.
Kit comes with everything you need to turn your XT into a rocket. As with any engine or exhaust modification, you will need to re-tune your fuel delivery system for optimum performance. Raises compression from stock 9.
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The filters are also supplied to original equipment manufacturers as well as private label brands. A pack of drain plug sealing crush washers. Replace your sealing washer at every oil change to prevent a leak. Extra protection for your motor! Strong magnet at the end of the plug picks up metallic flakes in your oil, protecting your engine!
Genuine factory shop service and repair manual. This is the reference manual Yamaha dealers use in their service departments. It has all the necessary info to do any maintenance or repairs to your XT Includes degree wheel, dial-gauge, multi-position stand, extension, 3-sizes of positive-piston stops, and a handsome wooden carrying case.
Made from medium carbon steel with hardened jaws. It features spanner pins and the jaws open up to 5" wide. It's ideal for holding clutch hubs, flywheels, gears, sprockets, etc. Made by Motion Pro.
A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!
This tool is designed to separate vertically split crank case halves on two and four stroke engines. Adjustable arms allow it to be used on multiple bolt patterns found on a variety of makes and models of motorcycles. Industrial grade steel construction with black oxide finish for long service life. Comes with 8mm mounting bolts and 6mm adapters.By Digger65August 19, in Yamaha Workshop. Now I have rewired but the prev owner wired the bike in green throughout making plugging the stator back up quite a challenge.
I Pull the plug and check for spark when I get one I sling in the plug and tentatively give it a kick. Another that gives me good pull that puts a smile on my face but won't start cold starts fine warm. You've got the high and low speed source coils wrong way round or the wrong polarity.
Or a combination of both. With the stator off the bike I could probably work it out - but if its been messed about with its likely to have other issues in my experience. Yes certainly something is wrong somwhere in the way its currently - no pun intended -plugged up. If you plug the lighting coil into the CDi it will blow it. It may actually work but this coil is capable of producing a lot of current which will burn out the SCR in the CDi box. I've not tried the other unit.
What I will say is the reason we started making CDi units for the SR was their one for this bike was shockingly bad. What they call a 'performance timing curve' is a joke as they keep the ignition fully retarded until 5, RPM when it swings full advanced. Would ther be any way of you supplying me with the original colour coding for the stator assy so I have a basis to go on?
I can then bell it out and the only think I could get wrong would be polarity which is easily sorted? You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
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Get to Know Us.Log in or Join. Adventure Rider. Dismiss Notice. Become a site supporter for a free shirt and ad free viewing. Tags: xt If plugging into the bike is a problem, I think these could work well. They also offer the flexibility of use when not riding.
Hunting, fishing, field work I'm thinking seriously about getting one. ADV Sponsors. On my KLR I added a switch to shut off the headlight to pick up some extra watts for electric gear.
Charging is not a problem at highway speeds where the rpms up higher. I turn the headlight off mostly in slower speed, lower RPM trail riding situations. RL LemkeJan 10, I've picked up a spare 40 watts with the switch to a LED headlight and tail light.
Pretty well covers the use of my heated vest. ThirtyOne likes this. Bandit 1Jan 20, Nice to see a new thread for the XT OilhedJan 20, Joined: Oct 17, Oddometer: 13, Location: Connecticut. Silly question. RL LemkeJan 20, The Yamaha XTH is originally sold as a dual spor motorcyclet. It's got huge blinkers, a head light, tail lamp, etc.
I'm not currently using any of that equipment since I am using the vehicle off road only. The original wiring harness is quite large as a result of all the lamps. I want to eliminate the original wiring harness to reduce weight and clutter on the motorcycle. The way this system works is the magneto coil provides alternating current power to the CDI unit.
The CDI contains components that allow it to use this power to drive the ingition coil. The ignition coil converts a low voltage, high current pulse into a high voltage, low current pulse.
This pulse travels to the spark plug, which can ignite the air and fuel mixture in the cylinder. For all of this to happen at the correct time, the CDI unit must know when to fire.
The pickup coil provides this signal to the CDI unit. Inside the left hand side of the motorcycle is the stator unit. It is covered by the rotor normally. The stator contains 3 coils.
They are from left to right in the photo. The lighting coil isn't relevant for the ignition circuit and can be ignored. There are a total of 8 wires that come out of the electrical harness from the engine.
The wires on my motorcycle appear to be cotton insulated. It was quite difficult to tell what colors the wires were, but rubbing them with motor oil seemed to help. The cotton is dyed a certain color, but the wire inside is a different color. The color of the cotton is what matters. There are 8 wires that come out of the wiring harness. The first 3 wires are contained within a 4 pin plug, that only uses 3 pins.
They are only for the lighting circuit, so you can ignore them. All the other wires use bullet connectors. They ones on the stator were filled with dirt, so I just cut through the bullet connector. The last two wires are pecuilar, because the cotton is actually white in color.
There is small piece of colored plastic around the wire that helps identify them. The wire with the red plastic connects to the white wire with red stripe on the harness. The wire with the green plastic connects to the white wire with the green stripe on the harness. The coloring is identical at the CDI.
The white-green, white-red, red, brown, and black wires go to the CDI unit. The CDI unit has 3 additional wires. They are. The CDI unit is mounted beside the ignition coil. So there is no real need for a harness to connect those wires together. The orange wire goes directly into the wire on the ignition coil.